Rural Iceland has been notable for its breathtaking natural beauty and sparsely populated landscapes. There have been multiple times over the past two days when we traveled long stretches of highway without any sign of human activity. Consequently, the options for meals (restaurants and grocery stores) are limited. Jay was thankful that our previous evening’s accommodation was located near a hotel which offered breakfast buffets to guest and non-guests alike. Following a hearty breakfast we set out on the road in the familiar Icelandic rain and wind.

Today’s drive featured the west coast of Iceland which is known for its rough seas, black sand beaches, lava fields and imposing cliffs. In the blustery conditions we observed large waves crashing upon the cliffs while seagulls clung to the rocks to get out of the weather. The North Atlantic was living up to its reputation for rough seas. As we continued to make our way around Snaefellsbaer we encountered our first beach. Djúpalónssandur beach is well known for its black sand on account of the long history of volcanic activity in the area.

No day in Iceland would be complete without seeing multiple magnificent waterfalls. Seemingly every farmhouse has a sizeable waterfall in its backyard, some of which are accessible to the public with designated parking lots and paved trails while others are behind fences but can be enjoyed from the roadside. In addition to the famous Kirkjufellsfossar falls (Google searches of Icelandic Waterfalls often return pictures it) we saw countless other less famous albeit no less spectacular waterfalls. It is evident where all of the water from the constant rain ends up as even late in the season these falls are full of water.

The last hour of our drive featured winding dirt roads along the coastline and through rural fields. The coastal drive was highlighted by numerous fjords each of which supported their own unique ecosystem while in the fields we saw countless sheep milling around. One of the roadside pullouts is even called “Good View” and the name of the viewpoint if anything undersold the vista. At this point we also got a good view of our car which on the driver’s side transitioned from black to light brown on account of all the mud and dirt we kicked up along the way. So much mud covered the side windows that it was nearly impossible to see out the left side of the car.

For tonight we are staying in a cottage on a working farm and creamery. The cottage itself, complete with a geothermal fed hot tub, is situated upon a hill which looks over the farm and surrounding valley. After dropping off our belongings we stopped by the creamery where we met the owner who not only kept the store open late for us but also gave us a tour of the dairy operation. We saw the milking process and the newborn calves (including one born just yesterday). This was a wonderful end to our evening and made us appreciate all of the work that goes into the food we eat. Tomorrow we head North to Lake Myvatn.